Can this newcomer ‘redefine’ Boise steakhouses? It might be the best I’ve ever had
Boise is experiencing an upscale steakhouse stampede. Or surge, at least.
Within months, the number downtown is on track to have doubled — from two to four. Adding to the influx, nearby Corso Italian Steak opened in March on Broadway Avenue.
Idahoans are familiar with stellar local destination Chandlers and national chain Ruth’s Chris. Newcomer El Gaucho, a Northwest brand, plans to join them downtown later this year in a massive space at 610 W. Idaho St.
But jumping into the ring first? A distinct, locally owned new concept.
Hemlock, 500 S. Capitol Blvd., opens Tuesday.
Taking over the former Richard’s Restaurant & Bar at the Inn at 500 Capitol hotel, Hemlock “is poised to redefine the steakhouse experience with an unapologetically bold approach,” it promises in a press release.
Take marketing spiels with a grain of salt, right? But in this case, add a little fat, too. And sizzle. After attending a bustling, invite-only evening — one of several being held this week to fine-tune cuisine and training — I’m convinced Hemlock has an intriguing blueprint for success. In nuanced ways, the hype amounts to more than just extra sauce.
And not just because the preview food was, nearly without fail, outstanding.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner
With a soothing, stylish interior that seats 105 diners, Hemlock is roomy enough to be classy but small enough to seem intimate. “We’re only 3,800 square feet,” co-owner and restaurateur Scott Slater says. “There’s going to be a little bit more exclusiveness. I think we’re going to have a little bit more latitude to do our own thing.”
As guests arrived and sipped wine and cocktails, a pianist in the bar played Alanis Morissette and Nirvana classics in the background. “Anything but jazz,” quips Slater, who moved his family to Eagle recently from California. Hemlock is the second Treasure Valley dining venture for Slater and Idaho native Todd Ketlinski; they opened Eagle’s Spitfire Tacos + Tequila in 2023.
Tables are not draped with white linen. There’s no dress code, either — for diners. But Hemlock exudes an unmistakable high-end aura. Servers are dressed in white blazers and Vans-style shoes. Management wears suits. “We’re going to ... make sure our service is in line with some of the best restaurants in the world,” Slater says.
No linen means no table crumbers — one of those luxurious (if borderline ridiculous) fine-dining service touches. If you drop a morsel at Hemlock, a staffer will appear and discreetly wipe your polished table clean with a moist, dark cloth.
You will be trying hard not to spill any bites, though.
Hemlock’s dinner menu is a single sheet, customized with the last name of the guest who made reservations: “Hemlock welcomes the (fill in the blank) party,” it announces at the top. Hemlock also will be open for breakfast and lunch, seven days a week.
Steak flights
The half-dozen steak cuts range from an 8-ounce Wagyu Zabuton ($60) or Prime Filet Mignon ($65) to a 16-ounce Prime Ribeye ($75) and 40-ounce Prime Porterhouse for Two ($165).
The Zabuton, also known as a Denver, is the only steak that Hemlock heats on cast iron. Its presentation? Utilitarian. Simply sliced into thin, savorable pieces on a plate.
It might be the best steak I’ve ever tasted.
Does that sound crazy? Seared to a perfect medium rare, this little hunk of heaven — from Idaho’s Snake River Farms — was off-the-charts phenomenal. The juxtaposition of the charred exterior crust and the velvety, buttery inside was otherworldly. It’s difficult to fathom any red meat being more pure, decadent and gratifying.
For adventurers, Hemlock offers market-priced steak flights. The Boise Flight (20 to 30 ounces) will cost roughly $150 and up; the Idaho Flight (30 to 40 ounces) more like $250-plus. Those names, by the way, depict portion size, not meat-sourcing region.
The idea, Slater says, is that each flight will showcase a cross-section of three styles. That could be a marbled protein such as Wagyu; then perhaps a selection from one of Hemlock’s two openly displayed dry-aging cabinets — such as bone-in filet mignon. The third, Slater says, “will be either a more traditional cut or something special that we just picked up from a local farmer.”
Salivating yet?
‘Off-script’ menu
Side dishes at Hemlock are ordered separately and might seem relatively typical — at first. (Sorry, no creamed spinach on the menu, Grandpa. But the kitchen will whip some up if you ask.)
The Hemlock menu, Slater says proudly, “goes a little bit off script from a traditional steakhouse.”
Carrots ($16) deliver an exotic African vibe thanks to harrissa roasting and cilantro chermoula, along with creme fraiche and pistachio dukka. The tasty Broccolini ($17) is char-grilled with cashew sauce, almond morita chile salsa, herbs and parmesan.
A vegetarian could dine on nothing but sides at this steakhouse and leave happy. Seriously. There also is a Vegan entree ($35) of lion’s mane mushroom steak with chile soy marinade, cashew sauce, tomato jalapeno jam and crispy polenta.
(Hemlock doesn’t cook with any seed oils, incidentally. It’s beef tallow in the fryers, extra virgin olive oil instead of canola oil in dressings and avocado oil in mayonnaise, Slater says.)
The totality of other non-steak entrees — with simple names but inventive preparations — include Pork ($55), Duck ($58), Fish ($48) and Pasta ($28). There’s also a market-priced Seafood Tower.
Want some server pizzazz? There’s also a Table-Side Baked Potato for Two ($30) — “a giant spud with irresponsible additions,” the menu explains.
Hemlock feels like downtown’s steakhouse for a growing, changing Boise. The choice of recent transplants. (Think “new money” if they’re ordering the $225 Caviar Service.) But also an option for any Idahoan hungry for a slightly edgier take on fine dining.
Or just a spot for some killer Wagyu Zabuton.
This story was originally published May 1, 2025 at 2:46 PM.