Recipes

‘Vegetable butcher’ tells you what you need to know

Eggplant steaks with salsa verde.
Eggplant steaks with salsa verde. For The Washington Post

Cara Mangini, the owner of a produce-focused restaurant, Little Eater, in Columbus, Ohio, has written a new cookbook “The Vegetable Butcher” — an encyclopedic guide to vegetables, featuring her favorite techniques for breaking them down and recipes for enticing ways to cook them. Along the way, she includes tips on seasonality, selection, storage and more.

The book is full of revelations: that the redder stalks of rhubarb aren’t quite as sour as the greener ones; that standing fresh corn on a kitchen towel before cutting helps you easily contain the falling kernels; that scoring eggplant halves helps the seasonings penetrate the flesh while roasting.

Those with advanced knife skills and lots of experience cooking vegetables might not need some of the directions on cutting and basic cooking, but even they might be pleasantly surprised by some of the thoughtful, yet simple recipes. The next time I spy beautiful beets at a farmers market, I’ll be boiling, smashing and searing them (the way I have for years loved to treat small potatoes) and combining them with chimichurri and crema, as Mangini instructs.

For now, I’ve been happy to have her take on eggplant steaks: You cut the eggplant in half lengthwise, roast with garlicky oil and serve with salsa verde and yogurt. Any recipe that includes a green sauce like this one catches my fancy. (It’s the Italian variety that’s heavy on herbs, not the Mexican one based on tomatillos, although I love that one, too.) As Mangini knows, not only can a salsa verde perk up any dish you slather it on, it’s also a fantastic way to use up herbs that are starting to wilt.

The salsa verde needs to be refrigerated for at least 1 hour and preferably overnight.

Serve with couscous or another grain of your choice.

Adapted from “The Vegetable Butcher: How to Select, Prep, Slice, Dice, and Masterfully Cook Vegetables From Artichokes to Zucchini,” by Cara Mangini (Workman, 2016).

Eggplant steaks with salsa verde

4 servings

FOR THE SALSA VERDE

1 clove garlic

1 1/2 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained (optional)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, or more as needed

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as needed

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE EGGPLANT

2 Italian, globe or heirloom eggplants (12 ounces to 1 pound each)

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cooked couscous, for serving (optional)

1 cup low-fat or full-fat plain Greek yogurt, for serving

For the salsa verde: Finely chop the garlic in a food processor. Add the parsley, cilantro, mint and the capers, if using. Pulse to form a coarse mixture. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the lemon juice, salt and pepper, then stream in the oil, whisking constantly. Taste, and add salt and/or pepper as needed. The yield is about 1 cup. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

For the eggplant: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise, keeping the stems on. Make several slashes diagonally across the flesh, 1/2 inch apart, scoring two-thirds of the way through the flesh without puncturing the underside skin.

Combine the garlic and oil in a small bowl, then spoon about a tablespoon over each eggplant half, working the mixture into the cuts. Brush it lightly on the skin side, too.

Arrange the eggplant halves cut sides up on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle the flesh lightly with salt and pepper, then drizzle with the remaining garlic-and-oil mixture to coat. Roast until the flesh is golden brown and tender, about 40 minutes.

Allow the eggplants to cool slightly. Serve the steaks warm with couscous, if desired, the salsa verde and a dollop or drizzle of Greek yogurt.

Nutrition per serving (using half the salsa verde and low-fat yogurt): 380 calories, 8 g protein, 14 g carbohydrates, 34 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 160 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 9 g sugar

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