California chain to open on ‘corporate row’ in Meridian where local restaurant folded
When Barrel 55 folded in 2018 at Gateway Marketplace in Meridian, its owner was candid about the challenges of operating as a local restaurant in the area.
“It’s corporate row,” he told me. “The independents can’t afford it.”
A corporate restaurant would be more suited for the building near the busy corner of Eagle and Ustick roads, he said.
Five years later? It’s happening.
Chicago Fire — a family-friendly, higher-end pizza chain — plans to open at 3004 N. Eagle Road, according to a media release from Wood Investments, which purchased Gateway Marketplace in 2021. There’s a “coming soon” banner on the old Barrel 55 building, plus a job listing that indicates the pizzeria will debut this fall.
Under new ownership, Gateway Marketplace already is riding a wave of resurgence. The old Pinnacle Sports Grill, which closed around the same time as Barrel 55, was replaced in late 2021 by Land Ocean, a fine-dining chain from California.
And in case you hadn’t noticed, a massive PGA Tour Superstore recently opened in the former Rosauers grocery store space. Rosauers had anchored the shopping center before shuttering in late 2017, simultaneously dragging down business at nearby eateries Pinnacle and Barrel 55.
Despite Chicago Fire’s name — and menu of Chicago-style pies, salads and wings — it’s a California brand. It’s not what most diners would view as outrageously corporate, either. With just four locations, Chicago Fire is considered a longtime local chain by Californians. Its founder moved there from Chicago in 1986, according to the restaurant’s website. A message to Chicago Fire’s marketing department was not immediately returned.
If you’re a fan of hefty pizza feasts, Chicago Fire’s menu will make your mouth water. Concocted in deep-dish and thin-crust versions, these pies are meaty, cheesy, calorie-packed meals. At the Folsom location, customers pay $39.50 for a large deep-dish Great Chicago Fire. It includes hot Italian sausage, “juicy” Italian beef and giardiniera peppers. You can order it with an optional habanero drizzle, too. A thin-crust version of the pizza is $34.50.
Chicago Fire also offers a variety of appetizers, soups, salads and pasta. It has a children’s menu, too.
But this definitely ain’t Chuck E. Cheese.
“Chicago Fire serves up crave-able fare in a uniquely upscale environment,” its website says. “High-back leather booths, custom millwork and operable full-height windows are just a few of the design elements that makes dining at Chicago Fire special. Natural wood tables are larger than most to accommodate your family style dining in comfort. Chicago Fire’s whiskeys, craft martinis and Chicago blues complete our authentic Windy City vibe.”
Granted, another pizzeria is probably the last thing on most Treasure Valley diners’ wish lists.
But Chicago Fire should bring something slightly different to town. If the place is more than just “upscale environment” — and the pies are truly authentic or, at least, reasonably exceptional — it could be a welcome addition to Meridian’s so-called “corporate row.”
This story was originally published July 12, 2023 at 4:00 AM.