New ‘upscale-casual’ Boise restaurant suggests sharing. The food’s so good, you might not

Before you check out a fun new restaurant and bar at 1030 S. Broadway Ave., let’s enjoy a recent-history appetizer.

Boise’s original Cobby’s sandwich shop was on that property for four decades. It closed in 2018, and the building was torn down.

Late last year, Crave Delivery opened on the ground floor of the new building. Less than three months later, operations were shifted back to Crave’s flagship Meridian location.

At the end of Crave’s brief stay, a bar opened on the second floor. The James Whiskey & Cocktails offers a spacious rooftop patio with a view of Albertsons Stadium across Broadway.

But on Wednesday, something new appeared again — or different, at least.

The James rebranded itself as a full-service restaurant: The James Kitchen & Bar.

Based on dishes whisked to tables during a private soft-opening event a day earlier, the reinvention looks promising.

Idahoans who enjoy stylish plates, interactive dining and craft cocktails should put The James on their to-do list.

“We’re upscale casual,” co-owner Scott Howard said. “We want to be your neighborhood spot. I think we’ve got a menu that’s a good value. And, obviously, everything is designed to share. So it’s what I would refer to as a very social, communal experience. It’s like you’re going to someone’s house, and you’re having a dinner party.”

Refined, limited menu

Clearly, the host is a foodie. The James is not a fine-dining restaurant, but it is — as Howard says — upscale casual. The one-page food menu includes almost anything you’d desire, but it limits your choices. The Meats & Seafood section features just half a dozen items. Yes, there’s a requisite burger (The James, $14, wagyu beef) and one steak (Double R Ranch Flatiron, $28). But aren’t you just a little curious about the Pork and Beans ($26)?

My recommendation? Try the phenomenal Petrole Sole Almondine ($24, with brown butter, citrus and capers.) But be warned. You might not want to share it.

The menu’s Pasta section includes four options, ranging from Penne alla Vodka ($14) to Cavetelli Bolognese ($16). The James also serves five pizzas, including meatball ($18) and wild mushroom ($18). Want a salad? There are three, all priced at 10 bucks.

Just to ensure that everyone really is sampling multiple tastes, The James dedicates significant menu space to 10 appetizers — five cold, five hot. Hands will dart toward the beautiful Ahi Tuna Tartare ($18, with avocado, scallions and sesame seeds in ponzu sauce). But the app that might grab taste buds fastest? Hot Crispy Calamari ($16), spiced up with Rhode Island-style chilis and garlic. The phrase that came to mind? Very well-executed.

Feeling indecisive? Staffers during the soft opening were happy to give recommendations. It’s part of The James’ emphasis on full service.

“I travel a lot,” Howard explained, “and obviously since COVID hit, I think the one thing that has really hit the restaurant industry hard is service and hospitality. You don’t get it in a lot of places now. So when you really do get good service now, you really notice.”

Creative cocktails

Craft cocktails still are a focus at The James. The signature drink, The James ($13), outsells all others. It’s the house old-fashioned, described on the menu as “the best drink ever made,” with “notes of vanilla and fig.”

If you’re a beer drinker, try Dylan’s Brew ($14). Even if you’re not a beer drinker, try it. Despite a nuanced hop profile, it’s sweet and refreshing — made with Bodhizafa IPA, Fords Gin, pineapple and elderflower, served on ice.

There’s also a modest selection of wine by the glass and in bottles, plus six beer taps.

The James opens at 3 p.m. daily. They’ll seat diners until 9 p.m. There’s a happy-hour menu from 3 to 5 p.m. For night owls — especially on the outdoor patio — there’s also a late-night menu with pizzas, tacos, chicken wings and a burger.

The James plans to stay open until 11 p.m. Perhaps later if business demands it. (Note: It will be closed Mondays initially, but should be open seven days a week starting sometime in September.)

With seating for 38 inside but another 80 on the patio, there’s room for an outdoor party. A DJ plays music from 7 to 10 p.m. Thursdays on the patio — and depending on how things go, possibly also on weekends in the future.

“The rooftop is going to become a hot spot,” Howard predicted.

It’s part of what he hopes will be a vibrant menu of both cuisine and socializing at The James.

“Three, 3:30 in the afternoon,” he suggested, “draft beer and decide what’s for happy hour. Come in at 5 with your family and have a full dining experience. Or show up at 10 o’clock when the DJ’s going and sit back and drink some cocktails.

“So I think we have a lot to offer.”