You have steakhouse competition, Boise. ‘Hip, sexy’ California chain opens in Meridian

On the hierarchy of steakhouses, it’s not a local staple like the Owyhee Tavern or Chandlers. Nor is it a nationwide brand like Ruth’s Chris.

But Land Ocean — opened in a former sports grill — already is a player.

Upscale but approachable, the small, California-based chain just launched at 2902 N. Eagle Road in Meridian.

The remodeled building is the former home of Pinnacle Sports Grill, which closed in 2018. Filled with plush, inviting seating, this “new American grill” is anchored by a U-shaped bar in the middle. Land Ocean’s founding vision was to “reinvent the steakhouse,” co-owner Karoline Platt explained in a phone interview earlier this year. “Let’s not have it be stuffy. Let’s make it hip and sexy. But it really is just a modern take on the traditional steakhouse.”

Platt’s husband, co-owner Mark Platt, spent 10 years of his restaurant career with the Chart House, and five with P.F. Chang’s. Consequently, Land Ocean’s kitchen delivers a solid, extensive list of lunch and dinner selections. There’s also weekend brunch, a popular attraction at Land Ocean’s other locations. Brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. The lunch menu also is available during those hours.

Land Ocean’s starters include choices such as Bacon-Jalapeno Mac and Cheese ($9), Ahi Poke Tacos ($13), Tenderloin Wellingtons ($13) and Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($17). Entree salads include Chicken Caprese ($17), Sesame Seared Ahi Tuna ($18) and Thai Noodle Steak ($19).

A variety of sandwiches and American kobe beef burgers line the lunch menu. Try the Damn Good Chicken Sandwich ($16), a Mushroom Burger ($16.50) or a Salmon BLT ($18). On the other hand, this is a seafood and steak joint. Maybe grab Beer Battered Fish and Chips ($14) or Macadamia Nut Crusted Chilean Sea Bass ($28). A Surf and Turf with an 8-ounce Wagyu sirloin and three tempura prawns goes for $22. Or enjoy a 6-ounce Filet Mignon ($32) or Wood Fired Rotisserie Chicken ($19).

The lunch menu also includes the chef-created Fitness Special. A changing, market-priced dish, it clocks in at under 450 calories.

Doing date night or dinner? You won’t feel like it’s mandatory to show up in a tuxedo, but Land Ocean checks the right boxes.

You’ll find plenty of fine dining standards such as Blackened Salmon (sautéed spinach, cilantro rice, chipotle mango sauce and pineapple salsa, $26) or a 16-ounce Ribeye (mashed potatoes, sautéed mushrooms and grilled asparagus, $48). Or splurge on Twin 6-ounce Cold Water Lobster Tails (broccolini, herb butter and coconut jasmine rice, $48).

Land Ocean has a dozen craft beers on tap and an array of wines. Specialty drinks ($10) are canned cocktails jazzed up by a bartender — at least until the newly opened restaurant acquires a liquor license.

Founded in Folsom a decade ago, Land Ocean has two locations in the Sacramento Valley. There’s also one in Reno, Nevada, that opened in 2019. The Platts also own two wine country-inspired Sienna restaurants in the Sacramento area.

Takeout and delivery are available from the Land Ocean in Meridian. So are reservations — probably a prudent move as word spreads about the new steakhouse.

While scouting for expansion locations, the Platts found Boise to be “beautiful,” Karoline Platt explained. But the vacant building on Eagle Road felt perfect for Land Ocean, she added.

“We don’t build in the big city,” she said. “We’re not going to do downtown Boise. We do well in the suburbs. That’s our clientele.”

This story was originally published December 2, 2021 at 3:51 PM.