Smoky, sweet and savory, this ‘underground’ Boise restaurant’s barbecue gets you hooked

Many of the best restaurant gems I’ve been lucky enough to find have been off the beaten path, but in the case of Brother Brown’s Underground in downtown Boise, I missed something right in front of me.

Make that underneath me — and I look forward to going back.

Originally from Ohio, Carlas Brown began smoking meats and doing Idaho events in 2000 before eventually setting up shop in Caldwell. Roughly two years ago, after a career in the banking industry, he opened full time in Boise in the basement of the historic El Korah Shrine, where he serves up slow-smoked meats five days a week (11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday).

After coming in the side door at 1118 W. Idaho St., you walk into the time machine that is the El Korah. The wood paneling, décor and old pictures of social events from past Shriners make you feel as if you’re getting a look into Boise’s social life in the 1960s and ‘70s. Past the old booths in the kitchen, Brother Brown himself is working, and he and his waitress, Robin, are ready to serve.

I wanted to try a number of the staples: pork spare ribs, a chopped brisket sandwich, a pulled pork sandwich, and all of the sides that give you a full and fair sampling. The smell of the sweet and smoky meat preceded the food’s arrival, and when it came to the table, my mouth was watering.

The ribs called to my eyes first. The meat had a perfect smoke line, and the top and bottom were wonderfully caramelized. The meat came off the bone with little resistance and had a nice, light chew to it. The smoky, sugary flavor was what hit my mouth first. It warmed my entire body; it was euphoric. The sweetness and vinegar from the BBQ sauce added a tiny bit of heat and tang to the natural flavor of the meat. I enjoyed every bite to the point that I worked my teeth like a dog, being sure to get every scrap.

I moved on to the brisket next. It was nicely chopped and shredded, which I greatly prefer over long, sliced cuts. It was served on a standard potato bun that did a great job of locking in the natural juices from the meat. The brisket coated my mouth with a fatty richness and savory saltiness, and had a beautiful aroma and enticing greasiness.

I always judge good barbecue by how well someone does brisket, and I wanted to try it on its own before adding any of the house sauce. Brisket is easy to screw up — easy to get too dry and leave flavorless. Luckily, Brother Brown’s did brisket proud. When I added the barbecue sauce to the sandwich, it changed the flavor profile in a lovely way, with that sweetness and meat making a wonderful combo. I was hooked.

The last meat I tried was the pulled pork, which I usually like a little dry and then hit with some sauce, because I think pork that has a crisp to it offers such a pleasing texture. Brother Brown’s pulled pork came out rather moist and was served on the same type of bun as the chopped brisket. The immediate taste I got from it was sweetness. You could quickly identify the brown sugar he used as a rub. Even though I prefer a smoky taste, it wasn’t overdone. The meat itself was tender and not too finely shredded. Because it was sweet, I used only a little sauce to gain some balance, and it made the sandwich more well-rounded. I think some pickle slices would have done really well on it.

I preferred the brisket over the pork in the end, but if you like a sweeter BBQ pork, this would be the sandwich for you.

The sides were very well done. The coleslaw was refreshing and sweet, with a delightful crunch. The mac and cheese was comforting and creamy, and the noodles were not overdone. The cheese sauce itself was both salty and peppery, with good balance.

The green beans were cooked in a bacon-laced broth, and they were tender and perfectly cooked. The collard greens were cooked in the same style as the green beans, and they had a very rich, earthy flavor, which paired great with the small pieces of bacon. They probably were my favorite side.

The last side dish my dining companion and I tried was the potato salad. Its texture was spot-on — creamy and soft. A little salt would have livened up the flavor profile a bit.

All in all, Brother Brown’s Underground gave us a great, affordable lunch in an old-school atmosphere. The sandwiches and spare ribs, at $9 or $10, include a pair of sides, and then extra sides are just $2. The experience felt like a throwback to days of yore, with classic, comforting recipes. I would recommend this place to anyone who wanted to support a good local restaurateur who’s trying to serve the best barbecue he can.

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