Despite ‘stupid-good’ food, Boise restaurant closed. But Meridian stays ‘strong.’

For a barbecue pitmaster forced to close his expansion restaurant after less than two years, Hoss Grigg sure sounds upbeat.

Then again, he has reason to keep grilling and smiling.

The Big Daddy’s Barbeque co-owner still gets to smoke prime rib at his flagship restaurant at 1551 W. Cherry Lane in Meridian. He’s still writing checks to a dozen and a half grateful employees. And he’s still selling tasty dine-in, takeout and delivery feasts to eager customers.

Are you still hoping that the Big Daddy’s BBQ at 10659 W. Fairview Ave. in Boise might return to action after closing during the initial pandemic shutdown this spring? You can stop now. Opened in fall 2018, the second restaurant is history, Grigg explained in a phone interview.

“It’s a good learning experience, though,” he said.

Despite offering menu items that were “stupid-good,” as Grigg described one particular tater-tot creation, the larger space was a challenge from the start. Located near Five Mile Road, it was hindered by difficult vehicle access, Grigg says. When COVID hit in March, the Boise business “took an absolute beating.” He and his wife, Khaseta, quickly shut it down with the intent of reopening. But reality soon prevailed.

“We just pulled the plug in May,” Grigg said. “That location was already rough as it was, and then the pandemic just basically drove the nail that killed it.”

This year, Big Daddy’s BBQ has gone from 60 employees at two locations to 18 employees at one location. But considering the circumstances, it might have been for the best.

“The Meridian location was going strong with takeout and delivery, so we just consolidated everything into the one location,” Grigg said. “And it’s great, the decision that we made. It’s made for a much stronger company.”

Grigg has seen dire predictions about mom-and-pop restaurants. They’re probably right, he figures. The National Restaurant Association estimates that about 100,000 restaurants have closed in 2020. That’s nearly one in six.

But Big Daddy’s aims to be in this for the long haul, Grigg said.

“We’re trying! We’re trying!” he said enthusiastically.

Online orders, takeout and delivery have been lifesavers.

“We truly attribute our ability to make it through — especially the beginning of the pandemic — to the Ubers and the Grubhubs of the world,” he said, “simply because we were already in place on those platforms.”

It doesn’t hurt when you offer to-go containers weighed down with slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket chili and bacon mac ‘n cheese.

“I feel blessed,” Grigg added, “just because we have a product that travels so well.”

Website menu

Big Daddy’s BBQ uses a special DoorDash delivery arrangement when customers order directly through the restaurant’s website. Consumer tip: Big Daddy’s online menu offers lower pricing than ordering delivery through third-party services.

It’s another way that Big Daddy’s is adapting as COVID alters the way people go out to eat. Even when a vaccine becomes available, Grigg says, he doesn’t imagine the restaurant universe reverting to its former self.

“I’m banking on the fact, as a business owner, that it’s not,” he said. “We are focusing literally all of our attention on digital delivery, digital fulfillment.

“In my opinion, the entire industry has not only changed, but it’s going to continue to change as this whole thing unrolls. It’s sad.”

Big Daddy’s has been around since 2006, when the Griggs started catering and rolling around in a food truck. A Big Daddy’s Meat Wagon still serves the Treasure Valley, bringing “gourmet eats to the streets.”

A brick-and-mortar Big Daddy’s BBQ has operated in Meridian since 2012. And someday, he and Khaseta will take another stab at opening a second spot, Grigg promises. It will emphasize takeout over full-service dining, he says. And, one must assume, convenient vehicle access.

“If you’re not losing something, you’re not trying hard enough,” Grigg said of the defunct Boise restaurant. “It was definitely a learning experience. And like I said, we’ll do it again.

“It just won’t be there,” he added with a laugh.

This story was originally published October 7, 2020 at 4:00 AM.