Decorated Boise chef opens highly anticipated restaurant with ‘fun’ bar menu — patio only
Chef Kris Komori wants to be clear: No, this is not the grand opening of his highly anticipated downtown restaurant, Kin.
With the pandemic raging, that communal-table, prix-fixe concept feels like a fantasy.
“We’ve, like, grieved and gotten over it already,” Komori says with a resigned laugh.
But make no mistake. When Komori and co-owner Remi McManus unveil a 10-item outdoor menu Thursday, July 23, at 999 W. Main St., they’ll savor the moment while guests savor the food.
“We’re finally opening for a la carte service,” Komori says. “By that, I mean you’re ordering off a menu. And we’re giving you as close to traditional service as we can get right now.”
It’s a limited opening. Service is only on the patio. But in reality, Kin remains on track. The plan, Komori says, always had been to launch a bar menu before unveiling the formal Boise restaurant and its high-dollar tasting menu.
Initially, Kin’s “outdoor nights” will happen only on Thursdays and Fridays. About two dozen well-spaced tables will seat guests, and reservations will be required. On Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, Kin remains busy hosting its ticketed “PiKINic” amphitheater dinner shows.
The prices are modest: $7 to $12. The mostly snack-size dishes have been concocted to pair nicely with Kin’s $12 craft cocktails — or even a $4 tallboy can of local beer. The food is meant to be shared among guests at a table who feel comfortable doing so, Komori says.
James Beard semifinalist
Just be aware: These plates are simpler than the main attractions on Kin’s eventual tasting menu.
“But they’re still fun plays on stuff,” Komori adds. “We’ll make them look good, and they’ll be texturally interesting. But it’s kind of meant to be more bar food than fine-dining food.”
Nominated for three consecutive James Beard Awards at his prior restaurant, State & Lemp, Komori is known for his culinary creativity. And ambition. So even if he claims to be holding back, his Idaho fans will salivate.
Keep it old school by ordering Chip & Dip ($7), with chips made from Woodland Empire Alecraft spent grain, plus Bogus Ranch dressing that includes Foothills-foraged herbs. Follow that with a few bites of Idaho Trout Tartare ($11), with smoked fish, dill, capers and potato chips. Or bite into a Chistorra ($9), a Basque-style pork chorizo served on a baguette sauced up with mojo picón.
Want to go big? Choose the priciest item, Fried Maitake Mushroom ($12), which also includes oyster mushrooms and tomato-jalapeno jelly.
Kin also will entice patrons with a couple of sweet splurges to cap the noshing, including Apricot-Orange Glacé ($8) with toffee pistachios and pretzels.
COVID-19 precautions
Coronavirus safety is paramount, Komori says, so Kin will strive for contact-free service. Food and drink will be placed on an empty table next to the diners’ table.
“The guests will have to get up and take a step to pick it up,” Komori explains. “It allowed a protection for our staff. So it’s not exactly counter service. It’s not like the guest has to go inside and order. We still have an interaction and a conversation with them. It’s just, we’re not leaning over someone at the table.”
Seating hours will be from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. If things go well, Komori says, Kin might extend the “outdoor nights” to Mondays and Tuesdays.
For now, he’s just excited to plate food — even thoughtful pub grub.
“Some of the plates look a little fancy, but when you eat them, they hit home,” Komori says. “They’re comforting. They remind you of bar food. And that’s kind of what we’re going for.”
This story was originally published July 21, 2020 at 1:15 PM.