Restaurant glory: Boise has two James Beard Award semifinalists — after none in 2019

If you’re an Idaho foodie, the James Beard Awards left a sour taste in your mouth in 2019.

One year later, things taste sweeter.

A Boise chef and baker have been named James Beard semifinalists, the culinary arts foundation announced today.

Sarah Kelly, chef and co-owner at Petite 4 in Boise, received a nod for Best Chef in the recently reorganized Mountain region, which includes Idaho, Colorado, Montana, Utah and Wyoming. This is her first time being recognized.

Moshit Mizrachi-Gabbitas, pastry chef and co-owner of Janjou Pâtisserie in Boise, is a semifinalist in the nationwide Outstanding Baker category. She earned the same distinction in 2016.

The James Beard Awards are hailed as “the Oscars of the food world.” Idaho eateries were absent from the prestigious list of semifinalists in 2019 — the first time that’s occurred in years. From 2016 to 2018, Boise chef Kris Komori of now-defunct restaurant State & Lemp received consecutive nominations. Other Gem State chefs have enjoyed nods in prior years.

Mizrachi-Gabbitas was the first Idaho woman to break the semifinalist barrier. Kelly is the first Idaho woman to join the ranks in the Best Chef division.

Based in New York City, the James Beard Foundation recognizes chefs, restaurateurs and food writers at an annual awards ceremony. Being a semifinalist — let alone winning — bolsters a restaurant’s reputation, increases pride in the kitchen and brings economic benefits.

An Israeli native, Mizrachi-Gabbitas opened Janjou Pâtisserie, 1754 W. State St., in 2013. When she received a James Beard nod three years later, her online orders doubled almost immediately, and new customers appeared.

“It’s crazy,” she told the Statesman. “It’s like all of a sudden you get confirmation that you’re good.”

Croissants are her passion at the French-influenced bakery.

“I like to make all the fancy cakes with the mousse and the frosting, but I don’t eat them,” she said. “It’s too much. One bite, and I’m good. I like to eat — and I like to make — croissants. I’m fascinated by the dough.”

Until recently, Kelly was known as the sandwich artist at Bleubird, which she owned with her husband, David, in downtown Boise from 2012 to 2018.

They opened French-bistro-inspired restaurant Petite 4 in 2018 at 4 N. Latah St. The intimate space on the Boise Bench quickly generated a buzz among diners. The menu changes seasonally and favors gloriously rich dishes.

With a five-star Yelp rating, Petite 4 made the review site’s “Top 100 Places to Treat Yourself” list in 2019.

Idaho has never pushed further than the semifinalist level of the James Beard Awards. Will this be the year?

Nominations for finalists will be revealed March 25.

Online: jamesbeard.org.

This story was originally published February 26, 2020 at 11:26 AM.