Wallowas are a scenic road trip to the mountains
Step off the Wallowa Lake Tramway and onto the trails near 8,250-foot Mt. Howard at the edge of northeastern Oregon’s Eagle Cap Wilderness, and you’ll quickly max out an SD card on your digital camera.
The mountain-top trails offer 360-degree panoramas of the snow-capped peaks in the Eagle Cap Wilderness, the lush-green forests of the Wallowa Mountains, and you can look down into deep-blue Wallowa Lake in the valley near the towns of Joseph and Enterprise.
The scene defines the word breathtaking.
The Wallowa Lake Tramway is part of the picturesque Wallowa Mountain Loop and Hells Canyon Scenic Byway, which are jumping-off points for sightseeing, boating, fishing, road and mountain biking, camping, dual-sport motorcycling, and hiking and backpacking.
There is a lot to do on the 213-mile Hells Canyon Scenic Byway that encircles the Wallowa Mountains and travels through the Oregon towns of Halfway, Joseph, La Grande and back toward Halfway. This is high country, and many areas have just opened as snow levels recede. Summer is the time to do it.
The route offers access to miles of dirt roads for motorcycling and ATVing, backpacking trailheads, and cutoffs on dirt roads for scenic vistas.
There are plenty of opportunities for camping from everything-you-possibly-need (including mini golf and bumper boats) at Wallowa Lake State Park to rustic U.S. Forest Service campgrounds along the Imnaha River.
It’s no wonder the scenic byway has been labeled one of the “7 Wonders of Oregon.”
I’ve traveled the scenic byway several times, and each time my focus changes from camping along the Imnaha River and looking for morels and wildflowers, to camping at Wallowa Lake State Park and taking the tramway to mountain vistas. Then there is the chance to explore remote, undeveloped camping spots along the Lostine River.
Although the scenic byway can be squeezed into a weekend or done comfortably in three days, to see as much as possible, relax and plan a week. Or, you can plan several different trips each time with a different focus.
GETTING THERE
Head out of Treasure Valley west on I-84 for about 51 miles to the Hells Canyon Exit 3 (U.S. 95). Go north on U.S. 95 to Cambridge (a good spot to top off the gas tank).
Head northwest on Idaho 71 to Brownlee Reservoir and continue on the Brownlee-Oxbow Highway to Oxbow, Ore.
At Oxbow, turn left and head out on Oregon 86 about 7 miles to the turnoff for the Wallowa Mountain Loop (North Fork of Pine Creek Road — Forest Road 39).
DRIVING THE WALLOWA MOUNTAIN LOOP
Road 39 actually connects the northern leg of the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway (Oregon 82 from La Grande to Joseph) with the southern leg of the byway (Oregon 86 from Baker City to Halfway and the Hells Canyon reservoirs). It’s the wildest part of the byway.
This segment offers great views of the Wallowa Mountains and the Seven Devils Peaks on the Idaho side of Hells Canyon at the Hells Canyon Overlook, where the landscape ranges in elevation from 875 feet in the Hells Canyon to 9,845 feet in the Eagle Cap Wilderness Area.
The overlook is about 19 miles up Road 39. Look for the sign for the turnoff. It’s the most popular photo spot on the road. It is a developed recreation site with parking for large vehicles, interpretation sites, paved paths, restrooms and picnic tables. It’s definitely a spot to stop on the drive.
Continue on Road 39, which will drop into the Imnaha River drainage for the first night’s camp. It’s about 4 to 5 hours from Boise, depending on scenic stops taken along the way.
Forest Service campgrounds in the area include: Ollokot, Blackhorse, Coverdale, Hidden and Indian Crossing. Gravel roads up and down the Imnaha offer scenic drives with trailheads and lots of exploring.
There are also plenty of places for camping in undeveloped sites.
From its beginning at Oregon 86, Road 39 winds 45 miles through the mountains toward Joseph with hairpin turns and steep side slopes. Take it slow and enjoy the scenery.
There are some complications this summer.
The southern 13 miles of the Wallowa Mountain Loop open June 18 for the weekends. However, the road will be closed from 8 a.m. Tuesdays to 5 p.m. Thursdays through June 30.
From July 1 through Oct. 15, Road 39 is open every day, but travelers can expect up to one-hour delays with flaggers and a pilot car.
Those who want to bypass the construction can take a detour route, Forest Road 66, which is open from Halfway through Road 39 by way of Fish Lake.
The detour route is 30 miles long and a well-maintained, single-lane gravel road with pullouts. The route is suitable for vehicles with trailers, according to the U.S. Forest Service. However, it is not recommended for motor homes.
Those with questions about the detour road should contact the Wallowa Mountains Office at (541) 426-5546, or the U.S. Forest Service’s Pine Field Office at (541) 742-7511.
Road 66 is scenic going over 8,500-foot passes and past glacial moraines. It also goes by Twin Lakes.
But for those who don’t want to drive on that much gravel, Road 39 might be the best choice, even with the delays. Road 39 is the official scenic route of the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway.
Once you get to Joseph, plan a couple of days to hike some of the trails out of the area near Wallowa Lake State Park or to take the tramway. Besides the state park, there are RV parks and cabins in the area.
RIDING THE TRAM
The Wallowa Lake Tramway is popular because it’s a way to get from 4,500 feet to about 8,200 feet in a matter of minutes. This is a spectacular ride with ever-changing views from bottom to top and back down for a different perspective. When you get to the top, you can explore a variety of trails winding over ridges, past alpine trees and wildflowers.
Eagle Cap peaks seem so close that you can almost touch them.
Interpretive signs are really interesting and describe the terrain and critters. Watch out when you get off the tram, you’ll be greeted by ground squirrels and Clark nutcrackers looking for a handout.
If you’re not into hiking around the mountain, you can take in the scenery at the Summit Grill restaurant on top of the mountain.
Those looking for more of a hardcore outing can hike to some high basins and alpine lakes in the wilderness. Why not? You’ve already gained the elevation.
Tram hours: Open daily in summer from 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.
Location: Near Wallowa Lake State Park out of Joseph.
Prices: Adult (18-64), $28; senior (65 and older), $25; student (12-17), $23; youth, (4-11), $19; and kids, 3 and under, free.
Information: wallowalaketramway.com.
HIKING/BACKPACKING
There are major trailheads from the Joseph and Enterprise side of the Wallowas. The Wallowa-Whitman National Forest has more than 2,700 miles of trails. Some trails are easy and fun day hikes for families with small children. Other trails offer overnight backpacking trips, and wilderness trails offer long, multi-day loops.
Information: fs.usda.gov/detail/wallowa-whitman.
ENTERPRISE AND BEYOND
After a swim in Wallowa Lake, or doing the touristy things like shopping and dining in Joseph, head north on Oregon 82 to Enterprise, which can also be a good gas or grocery shopping spot. By the way, you’ll find Terminal Gravity Brewing, home of its delicious IPA, in Enterprise. Roads out of Enterprise and the nearby town of Lostine head up into the Eagle Cap Wilderness, more jumping off spots for camping and hiking.
The Blue Banana in Lostine is a good stop for espresso or a supply of fresh camp coffee. It’s the building with the tail of a plane sticking out the roof and the rear of a Volkswagen bug sticking out the side of the building.
Oregon 82 continues north and northwest, and soon follows the Wallowa River through a beautiful canyon where you might see bald eagles. There are rest areas and picnic spots along the way.
If you are looking for a campsite this far out, Minam State Park on the Wallowa River is the perfect spot. Watch for the family of deer that roam around acting like camp robbers.
Continue on Oregon 82 to La Grande and take Oregon 203 to Union and Medical Springs on the back highway on the west side of Eagle Cap.
Catherine Creek State Park is located along the way and a good camping spot in a pinch. It’s along scenic Catherine Creek and also has a loop hiking trail up on a nearby mountain. There is some road noise.
ON TO OREGON 86
Once past Medical Springs on Oregon 203, look for the Keating Cutoff Road to Oregon 86, which heads east through Powder Valley toward Halfway. Again, there are lots of roads heading up toward the Eagle Cap with lots of opportunities for exploring. You can backtrack toward Baker City and visit the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, which is on Oregon 86. From here, the road goes through Richland, Pine and then hits Halfway.
ON TO OXBOW
Oregon 86 continues to your beginning spot at the Wallowa Mountain Loop turnoff, and it’s homeward bound to Cambridge. To make a faster exit to Boise, byway travelers can cut the loop short by taking Interstate 84 at Baker City back to Treasure Valley.
ROAD BIKING OPTIONS
The Wallowa County Chamber of Commerce calls the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway one of Oregon’s premiere cycling experiences. It is a favorite of Cycle Oregon’s annual “week ride.”
Here are details from the chamber of commerce:
Day 1: Elgin to Union — A mostly flat route that travels 45 miles through the Grande Ronde Valley.
Day 2: Union to Baker City — Another 45-mile day, this route includes several climbs, including one over 1,500 feet in elevation.
Day 3: Baker City to Halfway — This 52-mile ride follows the Powder River before heading into the Wallowa Mountains. A steep 1,200-foot climb precedes the final descent into Halfway.
Day 4: Halfway to Wallowa Lake — A challenging 77-mile day that travels on the Wallowa Mountain Loop through Hells Canyon National Recreation Area and the eastern portion of the Wallowa Mountains. Two major climbs include an elevation change of 3,900 feet.
Day 5: Wallowa Lake to Elgin — This 58-mile day traverses the north side of the Wallowa Mountains. The ride is mostly downhill, but includes a steep 1,100-foot climb up Minam Grade.
Information: rideoregonride.com