This ‘expensive’ new downtown Boise deli soon lowered prices. This was my $22 lunch
Opening a restaurant in downtown Boise is a tough racket.
Schnitzel Fritz is the latest concept to embrace the challenge.
A locally owned German deli, the Boise shop debuted recently at 1023 W. Main St., at the corner of 10th and Main. Early feedback has been somewhat mixed. “Super-delicious authentic German-style sandwiches,” gushed one reviewer on Google, where it’s rated a respectable 4.2 out of 5 stars. “The food is far too expensive,” complained another.
Give Schnitzel Fritz credit. It’s hustling to adapt.
An offshoot of Eagle staple Schnitzel Garten, the fledgling lunch destination already has dropped some of its schnitzel sandwich prices a smidge, making all five options $16. (Three other European-style sandwiches are $12-$13.) If you peruse menu photos from reviews, you’ll notice that bratwurst prices (now $12-$14) have been trimmed even more.
But most noticeable to your perpetually squeezed American pocketbook? As part of a newly unveiled lunch special, sandwiches and bratwursts now come with a side. You don’t have to pony up an extra $4.50-$5.50 to enjoy a plastic container of sauerkraut, potato salad or cucumber salad. (Unless you want to order an extra side.) Will this combo deal extend to dinner when Schnitzel Fritz pushes its hours past 11 a.m.-3 p.m.? We shall see.
Visiting on a weekday, a buddy and I found the small space to be relatively quiet at around 12:30 p.m. The restaurant was bright and clean. Impressively so. As we ordered, the cheerful sound of accordion-fueled German music played in the background. (Speaking of evening hours, that’s when they should bust out some David Hasselhoff. Or Rammstein!)
Feeling conventional, I chose the traditional schnitzel sandwich, plus sauerkraut and a not-so-traditional 20-ounce bottle of Diet Dr Pepper. (German beer and wine aren’t available yet, but coming.) Total cost with a $2 counter-service tip and tax: $22.14. In today’s nothing-is-cheap universe, that seems like a reasonable number.
Loaded with properly pounded pork schnitzel, my sandwich included romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomato and remoulade. Plunging my teeth into the stack of tender, meaty goodness, I did find myself sporadically lusting for a bit more zest, aka the remoulade, which is not unlike tartar sauce. (Or maybe I should have ordered the sweet, savory lingonberry schnitzel.) Still, this sandwich was solid. Even if the breading wasn’t exactly crispy.
Which brings us to an inherent barrier. These schnitzels are not made in-house. They’re handmade at Schnitzel Garten’s kitchen in Eagle. This necessitates reheating. After hearing from customers, Schnitzel Fritz announced days ago on social media that it was bringing in different equipment to help ensure its specialty was served appropriately hot and crispy. Good work.
My friend grabbed a plump, sauerkraut-topped bockwurst ($12) and a side of (remember, free) potato salad. Any bockwurst is best enjoyed with a dark German beer. Either way, it was a classic execution of the big ol’ gourmet dog on a toasted bun — and made me glad we shared our meals. Biting into that first jolt of powerful mustard and beef is always bliss.
Both side dishes were served nicely warm. Upon my first bite, I realized that I hadn’t eaten potato salad above room temperature in ages. Well-seasoned and laced with bits of bacon and onion, it was excellent. The sauerkraut? Decent, albeit a bit soggy and delicate in flavor. (Definitely not as punchy as Grandma’s used to be. Possibly better for the Idaho masses, actually.)
One practical observation? Turnaround wasn’t slow, but it wasn’t crazy-speedy, either. Since we were the only customers while food was being prepared, it served as a reminder that efficiency will be paramount if Schnitzel Fritz plans to turn tables at (hopefully) busier times. There are very few tables: one in front and two in the back.
Either way, you have to root for Schnitzel Fritz. Adjustments are happening. Staff was friendly. Potential would seem to be there. Even if an established pub competitor, Prost, serves bratwursts just blocks away on 8th Street.
As my German-born great-grandmother might have said: Ich drücke dir die daumen.
