Words & Deeds

White Chick? Buff Chick? Quirky or not, new restaurant’s food is ‘worth fighting for,’ Boise

Sweeto Burrito won’t slam competitors or put them in a chokehold when it opens today near the intersection of 10 Mile and McMillan roads. At least not immediately.

But describing the menu, franchise owner Steve Holdeman can’t help flexing a little.

After opening Sweeto Burrito restaurants in Idaho Falls and Twin Falls, he has reason to be confident that the quirky, Mexican-wrestling-themed concept will pack a punch in the Boise area.

Sweeto Burrito’s motto? “Flavor worth fighting for.”

“We make all our sauces. We cut all the meat and season all the meat in-house — so it’s nonprocessed meat,” explains Holdeman, who lives in Meridian. “I don’t want to dog on some other places ... but ... it’s definitely nonprocessed. It’s not low-calorie, but it’s real food, that’s for sure.”

It’s real different, too. Unusual but tasty burritos are the main event — with odd names such as White Chick, Veggie Avenger and Break Neck. They range in price from $8.29 to $10.99, including a side of fries, tots or chips and salsa. Located in a strip mall at 3110 W. Quintale Drive in Meridian — next to a coming Broken Yolk Cafe also owned by Holdeman — Sweeto Burrito will offer a few bowls and salads, too. There’s also a small kids menu.

Despite the culinary and cultural focus, it’s a stretch to describe Sweeto Burrito as a Mexican restaurant. It’s more of an “anything in a tortilla” fast-casual destination, Holdeman says.

“The cool thing about it is basically saying that ... Mexican wrestling ... it really doesn’t have any rules. The whole lucha libre is supposed to be no-rules fighting. So we’re not going to stick by any rules. We’re going to put whatever we want in those burritos.”

Take the Buff Chick ($8.29), for example: “The Buff Chick is basically chicken tenders and tater tots and ranch and cheese and hot sauce,” Holdeman says. “It’s not really a whole lot of Mexican in there besides the hot sauce.”

But sink your teeth into one? “Oh, my God, it’s so good,” he says. “So good.”

Another heavy hitter is the All American ($8.99) — a bacon cheeseburger burrito with fries and fry sauce stuffed inside. Or wake up to the Rise & Shiner ($9.99), a tortilla filled with steak, eggs, tater tots, cheese, cilantro ranch, salsa — and a squirt of sriracha.

Another Sweeto Burrito motto? “No limit to what’s in it.”

Big eaters will be fans of Sweeto Burrito, Holdeman says. “Basically there’s no way you’re leaving here and you eat our food that you’re not gonna be full. Our burritos are sizable, and they come with a side. If you can finish it, you’re gonna be in the top 10 percentile.”

Founded in North Dakota but now based in the Salt Lake City area, Sweeto Burrito started as a food trailer. After creating a buzz at a Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, its founder set up shop in Idaho Falls and eventually started franchising. Sweeto Burrito now has more than a dozen restaurants in four states, including five in Utah.

At 2,200 square feet, the Meridian store will seat roughly 80 customers in a non-socially-distanced time. Delivery will be offered through DoorDash. “And we have a drive-thru,” Holdeman adds. “People will be packing that drive-thru.”

Hours will be 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday.

If you dine in, be sure to bring a mask — a Mexican wrestling mask. (Sorry, that was a pandemic joke.)

Either way, don’t forget your appetite.

“A lot of times, we have complaints that people can’t finish the burrito,” Holdeman said. “Like, people are complaining that the food’s too much.”

This story was originally published September 21, 2020 at 4:00 AM.

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