Recipes

Iced tea makes the perfect base for summer cocktails

From left: The Porchard; I Love Humanity; La Bergamote Juste; High Tea; Summer Suzie.
From left: The Porchard; I Love Humanity; La Bergamote Juste; High Tea; Summer Suzie. For The Washington Post

Through cocktails, I’ve come to be an appreciator of tea. It falls right under bitters on my list of ways to add flavor without adding much alcohol or sugar. And it doesn’t always mean adding caffeine; although many true teas contain it, lots of green teas have a low caffeine content, and some of the herbal teas and fruit infusions have none at all.

(A point of definition: Although some blends travel under the “tea” name, unless they contain leaves of Camellia sinensis, they’re not technically real tea. I’m using the term “tea” slightly unscientifically here, to refer to botanical blends that you brew with hot water and aren’t coffee.)

I like how preparing teas is both similar to and different from making cocktails. Like a good drink, a good cup of tea requires precision. The proper extraction of flavors in tea is a matter of careful measurement of time and temperatures. Over-steep a finicky leaf and you can wind up with a cup of bitter, aggressively vegetal unpleasantness, barely recognizable.

But unlike cocktails, tea is made via a process that’s inherently slothy, especially when you’re chilling it afterward. As a home cocktailer, I’m not serving a bar three deep with howling patrons. But I am always trying to make drinks faster, and speed is something you cannot apply to teas: They take the time they take, and in the case of some herbal teas and infusions, the steeping may stretch beyond 10 minutes. Yet isn’t that a lovely thing in itself? We live such busy lives, and this small pause that tea creates provides an opportunity to do yoga poses, practice mindfulness or stare frantically at your cellphone while sending mental admonitions to the tea to just steep already, you no-good lazy leaves.

Black teas are generally great with darker spirits such as aged rums, bourbon and rye. Green tea and herbal teas such as chamomile often work well with gin; chamomile is a common flavoring in vermouth.

The Porchard

4 servings

This Southern-inflected sipper will be best when you can use fresh, ripe peaches. But even unripe peaches with a good fragrance will work. The lemon juice brings brightness; omit it if you're looking for a drink that more closely echoes a classic Southern sweet tea.

Make ahead: The bourbon needs to infuse for a day or two in advance; the infused bourbon can be refrigerated for up to a few weeks.

3 cups chilled black tea

1 1/2 cups peach-infused bourbon (see NOTES)

6 ounces fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons; optional)

6 to 12 ounces Demerara syrup (see NOTES)

Ice

Mint sprigs, for garnish

Combine the tea, peach-infused bourbon and lemon juice, if using, in a large pitcher. Add 6 ounces of the Demerara syrup, then taste; add some or all of the remaining syrup as needed. Refrigerate until well chilled.

When ready to serve, fill 4 glasses with ice. Take sprigs of mint, slap each one between your palms (to release the herb's oils) and add one sprig to each glass. Pour the drink over the ice to fill.

NOTES: To make the peach-infused bourbon, place 12 ounces of peeled, sliced fresh peaches in a bowl and cover with 1 1/2 cups of bourbon. Allow to infuse for 24 to 48 hours, then strain, pressing on the peaches to release any remaining liquids. Discard the solids.

To make the Demerara syrup, combine 1 1/2 cups of Demerara or turbinado sugar and 1 1/2 cups of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Cook for a few minutes, then turn off the heat. Cool completely before using or storing (for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator).

Nutrition per serving: 330 calories, 0 g protein, 28 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 26 g sugar

Summer Suzie

4 servings; subtle, floral and lightly bittersweet, this drink incorporates chamomile tea with the sun-hued, gentian-based aperitif Suze.

1 cup chilled chamomile tea

4 ounces Old Tom Gin

2 ounces Suze brand aperitif liqueur

2 ounces dry curacao

Ice

4 twists of lemon peel, for garnish

Combine the tea, gin, Suze and curaçao in a pitcher, then stir.

Fill 4 highball glasses with ice and divide the drink among them. Express a piece of lemon peel over the surface of each drink, then drop the peel in; or roll the peels, skewer them with cocktail picks and rest one across the rim of each glass.

Nutrition per serving: 120 calories, 0 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

La Bergamote Juste

1 serving; gin and Earl Grey tea go beautifully together. The bergamot — bergamote in France — in the tea complements the botanicals of the gin in this crisp, refreshing drink.

Ice

3 ounces chilled Earl Grey tea

1 1/2 ounces citrusy gin, such as Tanqueray 10 or Malfy

3/4 ounce honey syrup (see NOTE)

1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice

1 to 2 ounces tonic water

Twist of grapefruit or orange peel, for garnish

Fill a highball glass with ice. Add the chilled Earl Grey tea, gin, honey syrup and lemon juice, then stir. Top with the tonic water as needed.

Twist/express the citrus peel over the top of the drink, then drop it in.

NOTE: To make the honey syrup, dissolve 1/4 cup of honey in 1/4 cup of boiling water, stirring until the honey has dissolved. Cool completely before using.

Nutrition per serving: 170 calories, 0 g protein, 17 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 5 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 16 g sugar

High Tea

1 serving

This simple, delicious concoction highlights oolong tea. To make a crowd-size batch, multiply the ingredient amounts by the number of servings you want, mix in a pitcher and refrigerate until ready to serve, then pour over ice.

MAKE AHEAD: The rich simple syrup can be refrigerated indefinitely in an airtight container.

Ice

2 ounces brewed, chilled oolong tea

1 1/2 ounces Laird's Applejack

1/2 ounce chilled rich simple syrup (see NOTE)

2 dashes orange bitters

Fill a highball glass with ice. Combine the chilled tea, applejack, rich simple syrup and orange bitters in a mixing glass, stirring to incorporate. Pour into the highball glass.

NOTE: To make a rich simple syrup, combine 1 cup of sugar and 1/2 cup of water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a low boil, then cool. Transfer to a heatproof container. Once it has cooled to room temperature, cover tightly and refrigerate until chilled through; store indefinitely.

Nutrition per serving: 140 calories, 0 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 12 g sugar

I Love Humanity (Inspired by e.e. cummings)

1 serving

The roastiness of the barley tea and the richness of apple brandy and bourbon bring depth to the drink. Barley tea is caffeine-free. It is available in Asian markets and at some specialty tea shops. Allspice dram is an allspice-flavored liqueur. Maraschino liqueur is not the juice from maraschino cherries.

Ice

1 ounce brewed chilled barley tea (see headnote)

3/4 ounce apple brandy (such as Copper & Kings or Laird's)

3/4 ounce bourbon

1/4 ounce allspice dram (see headnote)

1/4 ounce maraschino liqueur

1/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

Whole nutmeg, for garnish

Fill a mixing glass with ice, then add the barley tea, apple brandy, bourbon, allspice dram, maraschino liqueur and lemon juice; stir until well chilled. Strain and pour into a chilled rocks glass.

Use a Microplane zester to grate a little fresh nutmeg over the top.

Nutrition per serving: 190 calories, 0 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 9 g sugar

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