Winter tomatoes are deliciously out of season

Roasted winter tomatoes.
Roasted winter tomatoes. The New York Times

If there’s one vegetable that people feel most passionate about eating only in season, it’s tomatoes. But the fact is, even tomatoes don’t have to be eaten in season to taste good. You just have to approach them the right way.

When I crave tomatoes between November and March, I know it’s time to make tomato confit, or as I like to call it, A Big Mess of Winter Tomatoes. I buy a couple of pounds of tomatoes, cover them in olive oil, then roast them until they have golden spots and have collapsed a bit. Not only do I wind up with tomato-flavored olive oil that’s absolutely delicious, but I’ve also got quarts of flavorful tomatoes that I can serve on pasta, on toast with whipped feta, on bagels with cream cheese. I can turn them into a delicious tomato soup, or into a coconut curry sauce for fish, tofu or rice.

So forget what you’ve been told about what vegetables to eat when. Winter tomatoes exist, and if you approach them differently than you’d approach summer tomatoes, they can blast even the strongest seasonal affective disorder to shards.

Roasted Winter Tomatoes

Time: about 2 hours, plus cooling; yield: 2 to 3 quarts (about 10 cups)

2 ½ pounds tomatoes (any kind)

5 garlic cloves, peeled

2 slices peeled ginger, about 1/8-inch thick

2 to 3 sprigs fresh basil

5 to 6 cups extra-virgin olive oil

Heat oven to 250 degrees. If using larger tomatoes, such as beefsteak or plum tomatoes, slice them in half; if using cherry tomatoes, leave them whole.

Combine tomatoes, garlic, ginger and basil in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Add enough olive oil to cover. Transfer to oven and bake for 2 hours; the tomatoes should have started to collapse and have a few brown spots. Return them to the oven if necessary.

Remove baking dish from oven and let tomatoes cool. Drain the oil and reserve. (You can use it as you would any normal olive oil.) Refrigerate or freeze your tomatoes for later use; they will last in the fridge up to 1 week. The oil will keep for 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Roasted Tomatoes and Whipped Feta on Toast

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes; yield: 5 to 6 large toasts

8 ounces feta cheese

6 tablespoons heavy cream

1 loaf of your favorite bread (about 1 pound)

Zest of 1 grapefruit, plus 1 tablespoon grapefruit juice

½ tablespoon tomato oil, from roasted tomatoes (see recipe above)

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 cups wild arugula or torn chicory

½ cup torn parsley or mint

4 cups roasted tomatoes, roughly chopped if large (see recipe above)

Salt and pepper to taste

Press the feta for an hour: Take a stack of plates, wrap the feta in a dish towel, put it on the bottom plate, and put the rest of the stack on top of it.

Purée the pressed feta in a food processor until smooth. Combine the feta and heavy cream in a bowl and mix it by hand until it’s smooth and creamy. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Slice your loaf of bread into 1/2-inch-thick pieces. Toast your pieces in the oven or toaster just until heated; you want it crispy and warm, but no color.

In a large bowl, place grapefruit juice, tomato oil, garlic, arugula and herbs; toss to combine. Add more oil and grapefruit juice if desired.

Spread the whipped feta on the toast, then put down a layer of greens. Top with a layer of tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle the grapefruit zest on top, and serve.

Tip: To further enhance the toast, drizzle some more tomato oil from earlier over each slab of bread and sprinkle it with salt before toasting. Then rub it with a cut garlic clove when you pull it out.

Roasted Tomato-Coconut Sauce

Time: 15 minutes, yield: About 6 cups

¼ cup reserved tomato oil from roasted tomatoes (see recipe above, or use extra-virgin olive oil)

½ cup chopped onions

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 / 4cup freshly squeezed juice

4 cups roughly chopped roasted tomatoes (see recipe above)

1 (13.5-ounce) can coconut milk

Salt, to taste

1. In a medium pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in red pepper flakes and lemon zest, then add tomatoes and coconut milk.

2. Reduce heat to low and cook until mixture just begins to simmer. Immediately remove from heat and season with lemon juice and salt to taste. Serve over fish, tofu or rice. (If you’re cooking tofu, press it between two plates for a half-hour first to get the water out.)