Wine advice: Crisp white wines are perfect for summer sipping

By GARRY SCHOLZ - Special to the Idaho Statesman

Published: 07/23/08


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Special to the Idaho Statesman
A block party such as this one in the Sonata subdivision in Southwest Boise is an ideal occasion for enjoying summer wines.

ELSEWHERE

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

CEDAR-PLANK SALMON

Here's my recipe for one of my favorite dishes to grill in the summer.

Serves 8

2 bottles New Age white wine ($9)

2 whole limes

3- to 4-pound salmon fillet(s) (I prefer wild salmon with the skin on)

1-2 cedar planks, soaked in water 3-4 hours beforehand

Old Bay seasoning

2 bottles your favorite Pinot Noir

Quarter limes and fill glasses with ice cubes. For each glass, add New Age wine, squeeze a little juice from a quartered lime, then drop in.

While enjoying the wine, heat up your grill.

Liberally sprinkle Old Bay over the fillet(s), and place salmon fillet(s) on the plank(s) then place on grill, close cover

Grill salmon for 20 minutes or so, checking occasionally to make sure plank(s) don't catch fire.

When salmon flakes easily, remove and serve.

Enjoy with the pinot noir.

There's one thing certain about the weather between now and Labor Day: It's going to be hot.

But summer weather presents a special opportunity when it comes to appreciating wine.

It's a time of year when I enjoy certain varietals much more often than the rest of the year.

Hot weather means chilled wines are the order of the day, especially when outside grilling or socializing. Crisp, refreshing whites are what I'm drinking a lot of these days. For me, that means varietals such as sauvignon blanc, pinot gris/grigio, albarino, and certain white blends.

That doesn't mean I'm ignoring reds, however. A lot of summer fare pairs well with red wine.

Before I get into specific recommendations, let me provide a general overview on wines for summer.

You can hardly go wrong with just about any sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, Chile or France.

Sure, some will be better than others, but most will display a refreshing crispness with lots of citrus on both the nose and the palate.

The same is true for pinot gris (or pinot grigio, as it's sometimes called) from Idaho, Washington and Oregon.

You can try pinot grigio from Italy, but be sure to ask for a recommendation from your local wine shop. I've found some Italian pinot grigio that is offered locally to be weak and lacking crispness.

Albarino from Spain is an interesting, refreshing change of pace for a summer white. I've found the local offerings to be quite good.

As for reds, chianti, pinot noir and zinfandel are what I'm drinking this summer.

I visited with Keith Nyquist, the Idaho sales manager for Wild West Wines & Spirits of Boise. He had a number of recommendations. I tried them all; following are the ones I enjoyed the best. They're available locally.

ROSe

Cune Rosado 2007 ($11). This offering from Spain is one reason the fastest-growing segment of the wine market right now is rose. It's loaded with the aroma and flavor of strawberries and is so reasonably priced.

Nyquist advises that you chill rose to as cold as you can get it before enjoying.

WHITES

Sokol Blosser Evolution NV ($20). I've tried more unusual whites this year than ever before. This one from Oregon is remarkable in that it is made from nine different white grape varieties.

I believe that most any spicy food would pair well with this white blend. Its nose of orange combined with its subdued crispness and slightly sweet taste would match perfectly with spicy Thai, Mexican, Indian and Cajun dishes.

Dashwood sauvignon blanc 2006 ($16). Nyquist is excited about this offering from the Marlborough district of New Zealand.

"In my opinion," he says, "this is the best value right now in sauvignon blanc from New Zealand."

I breathed in aromas of stone fruit and tasted passion fruit mixed with lots of citrus flavors of lime and grapefruit.

Enjoy this wine with grilled fish and shrimp, or with a summer salad. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the few wines that can pair with many vinaigrette dressings.

REDS

Saintsbury pinot noir 2006 Stanley Vineyard ($49). This offering from the Carneros appellation of Sonoma and Napa Counties is a bit spendy but, oh, so good. The price reflects the exclusiveness of a single, old vine vineyard planted in 1942.

This Saintsbury pinot is slightly spicy with hints of cranberry, which is what I'm looking for to pair with a dish such as cedar-plank salmon.

Il Bastioni Chianti Classico 2005 ($26). Chianti has to be really good before I'll drink one, and this one is what I'm looking for. It's silky, powerful and elegant.

Nyquist's opinion is unequivocal. "This represents some of the best wine in all of Tuscany right now," he said.

The acid of the Sangiovese grape that chianti is made from goes well with the acid of most any tomato-based dishes.

Trinitas Old Vine Contra Costa County zinfandel 2004 ($19). Although you might not think at first of enjoying zinfandel in the summer, it's the wine to enjoy with most barbecue sauce dishes.

I enjoy grilling both pork and beef ribs in the summer and serving them with my own spicy barbecue sauce. This Trinitas zin is what I'll be opening to go with them. Its nose is a delightful whiff of pipe tobacco, while its taste is full of dark fruit flavors with lots of spiciness.

TASTING TIPS

Divine Wine Bar in Meridian is hosting a tasting of summer wines from Spain from 6 to 7:30 p.m. on July 31.

Tannins Wine Bar is open in Kuna. At the west end of Main Street in the Sandstone Plaza, the establishment offers a wide selection of top rated wines from around the world.

A limited menu of food is available, and wine can be purchased by the glass or bottle.

Garry Scholz: wineadvice.garry@gmail.com

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