Don’t knock canned tuna.

It’s rivaled in its versatility only by its price. A 5-ounce tin serves two — just add mayonnaise and bread — for about a buck.

“Water-packed tuna is low in fat and calories,” said Marla Nawrocki, a registered dietitian and certified diabetes educator at Sutter Gould Medical Foundation in Modesto, Calif. “It is also high in protein and contains heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids.” A 2-ounce serving, about 1/4 cup drained, of water-packed tuna has 10 grams of protein, 50 calories and 1 gram of fat.

Processed tuna is the ultimate in convenience food. Open a pouch and eat or, with a little more effort, turn it into a sandwich for lunch. Tuna also can take a starring role at dinner — and with not much more effort than making a sandwich.

It’s time to stop turning up your nose at this pantry workhorse.

For tuna and chips casserole, empty a 10 1/2-ounce can of cream of mushroom soup into a 1-quart casserole dish. Mix in 1/2 cup milk. Drain a can of tuna and add it the soup along with 1 cup crushed potato chips and 1 cup cooked green peas. Sprinkle top with 1/4 cup crushed potato chips. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes or until bubbly.

“Most large seafood producers cook their fish twice,” according to America’s Test Kitchen. The tuna is cooked once before it’s canned, and then again when it’s heated inside the can to kill harmful bacteria. Some of the lesser-known brands cook the tuna just once, “which preserves its fresh flavor and texture.”

CRISPY TUNA SLIDERS WITH CITRUS SLAW

Makes 8 sliders

1 small red cabbage, shredded

11/2 tablespoons sugar

Sea salt

1 tablespoon poppy seeds

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 fresh lime, juiced

Cracked black pepper to taste

1/2 cup minced fresh parsley

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1 fresh red chili pepper, minced

1 rib celery, minced

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon celery seeds

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon heavy cream

3 green onions, finely sliced

2 cups canned tuna in water, drained

1/2 cup dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Canola oil

Slider buns

Slaw: In a large bowl combine shredded cabbage, 1 tablespoon sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Toss; cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. In a jar, combine the poppy seeds, mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon Dijon, lime juice, 1/2 tablespoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon sea salt and lots of black pepper. Close lid and shake until blended. Pour dressing into slaw, along with a 1/4 cup of parsley, and toss.

Tuna patties: Heat olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, chili pepper, rib of celery, cayenne, celery seeds, 1/4 teaspoon salt and ground pepper to taste.

Saute for three minutes, then take off heat and let cool for about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk together egg, cream, tablespoon of Dijon mustard, green onions, 1/4 cup parsley, the garlic-chili-celery mixture, sea salt and black pepper to taste. Fold in tuna and bread crumbs. With lightly floured hands, shape about 1/4 cup of tuna into a patty. Dredge each patty in flour and freeze for 10 minutes. Heat 1/2 cup canola oil to 350 degrees in a large frying pan and fry tuna patties for three to five minutes, until golden and heated through. Place each patty on a bun and top with the citrus slaw.

This recipe is from “Nadia G’s Bitchin’ Kitchen Cookin’ for Trouble,” by Ballantine Trade Paperback ($22).