GINO’S ITALIAN RISTORANTE

3015 W. McMillan Road, Suite 108, Meridian, 887-7710

Gino is more than a name on the menu. He’s likely to look out from the kitchen and greet you when you walk in the door. Or come around later to see how you like your meal.

It’s a family feeling, built around family history. The hearty southern Italian recipes reach back to Gino Vuolo’s grandmother and a century-old family restaurant that still operates in Naples.

Gino’s northwest Meridian location is off the beaten path for many, but fans of the food and the man happily make the trek. That’s especially true since the new Ten Mile interchange opened a year ago, making it easy for Nampa and Boise drivers to reach the edible objects of their desire.

Choices include ravioli stuffed with lobster ricotta and lemon zest and accompanied by prawns; pasta with pancetta, porcini and Parmesan; and baked meatballs. Gino’s fondness for veal is evident. When pressed to choose a favorite, he opts for the Saltimbocca with prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, browned butter and sage.

Kick back on the patio or inside at purple-cloaked tables and enjoy, starting with bread and an addictive dipping sauce. Don’t be in a hurry: Everything’s made to order from scratch. The wine list has many reasonably priced offerings from Italy and the Northwest — even an unusually extensive selection of half bottles for the restrained drinker.

HONORABLE MENTIONS

• Asiago’s, 1002 W. Main St., Boise, 336-5552, www.asiagos.com

• Olive Garden, 320 N. Milwaukee St., Boise, 322-3327; 16401 N. Marketplace Blvd., Nampa, 442-8129, www.olivegarden.com

• Louie’s Pizza & Italian Restaurant, 2500 E. Fairview Ave., Meridian, 884-5200, www.louiespizza.com

• Carino’s, 1700 S. Entertainment Ave., Boise, 373-4968; 3551 E. Fairview Ave., Meridian, 888-7801, www.carinos.com