Orr: The Ram's Kevin Bolen takes on new challenges at Grand Teton Brewing

Posted: 12:00am on Jul 1, 2011

Former Ram head brewer Kevin Bolen won a silver medal for his German-style Clearwater Kolsch and a bronze medal for his Tail Dragger IPA at the 2006 Great American Beer Festival. SHAWN RAECKE — Idaho Statesman file photo

One of Boise’s best brewers is now the head brewer at Idaho’s best brewery, Grand Teton Brewing in Victor.

(That sentence is as much fun to write as it is to say. Try it. See what I mean?)

That’s right, Boise beer nuts — those Grand Teton beers you know and love are now being brewed by Kevin Bolen, who spent the last 15 years making award-winning beers at the Ram in Boise.

This is kind of Boise’s loss, but it’s really Idaho’s gain. Seriously. Boise’s best brewer joins Idaho’s best brewery? To steal a catchphrase from Nick Gilbert, what’s not to like?

Grand Teton Brewing found themselves losing two brewers this spring, who got offers for jobs that made more sense artistically or regionally. The company was also completing an expansion project that really picked up steam with a change in ownership over the last few years, and they were selling more beer than ever, especially since they began selling more suds in California.

In short, it was a chance to pick some new brewers who could help shape the future of the brewery at critical time, Grand Teton Brewmaster and COO Rob Mullin said.

“We realized we had a real opportunity here, after seeing all the resumes come in, to recruit. When we got together, and asked ‘Who do we know that we want here?’ the first name that came up was Kevin,” Mullin said. “We knew he was a great brewer, knew he was a great guy who fit in with our culture, who had a great work ethic. So why not ask?”

Bolen said he first found out about the opening this spring after talking to Mullin about trying to get Brewers Association President and homebrew legend Charlie Papazian to visit Boise for the fledgling Idaho Beer United guild.

It wasn’t long before negotiations began, and Bolen was hired to be head brewer at Grand Teton. Leaving Boise — and the Ram — wasn’t easy, Bolen said. He and his family love Idaho’s capital city, and his run at the Ram resulted in the brewery winning five medals from the Great American Beer Festival, which is pretty impressive.

(Total Disorder porter, which won a gold medal in 2010, joins the ranks of the Tail Dragger IPA (bronze medal in 2006), the Clearwater Kolsch (silvers in 2006 and 2009), and the St. Mick’s Dry Stout (gold in 2000) in the Ram’s GABF medal case. The Tail Dragger, Kolsch and stout are all Bolen’s recipes.

Grand Teton Brewing — with it’s 15,000-barrel capacity, ability to bottle and sell beer all over the Northwest, and sterling reputation — just offered an opportunity he couldn’t turn down. He got to produce beer for the Ram’s loyal customers in Boise, but the new job gives him a chance to make beer for about 16 states, including most of the Northwest, California and the mountain states.

“I didn’t give it much thought at first, but I realized I was ready for a new challenge. I’d get to learn things about brewing I wouldn’t get to learn any other way,” Bolen said. Moving to rustic Victor, just outside of Grand Teton/Yellowstone country, was a good lifestyle change for his family, too, he said.

“My kids love snow,” Bolen said, laughing. “We are good with it.”

One reason he was cool with the move is the Ram is in good hands. Jake Schisel has now moved up to the head brewer spot. All of Bolen’s recipes, like the Tail Dragger and Kolsch, are staying at the Ram.

In addition to becoming head brewer, Bolen will get a chance to develop and add some new beers to the Grand Teton roster, alongside such favorites as Bitch Creek ESB, Sweetgrass APA and Teton Ale.

Bolen said for his first move he wants to create a new Belgian Dubbel Ale for Grand Teton’s cellar series this summer.

Considering how Bolen has created a medal-winning IPA (by far the toughest category at the GABF every year) and how Grand Teton doesn’t have a regular IPA on its roster of year-round staple beers, I’d bet a dollar that might be on their radar soon. If not, it should be.

I’ll visit with Mullin and Bolen at the GABF later this year and fill you in on what is coming next from Idaho’s finest production brewery.

Patrick Orr: 373-6619.

Patrick Orr’s beer column runs the first Friday of the month.

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