This recipe adapted from “Goat Cheese,” by Maggie Foard (Gibbs Smith, 2008), is good enough for company, with an easy and flavorful sauce you’ll be using with other meals.

A pourable Mexican crema (from the refrigerated case) may be substituted for the buttermilk. You may have a little of the cream left over.

If you have the time and prefer less cleanup, you can do just about all the cooking over direct heat on the grill: Wrap the corn, onion and red bell pepper mixture in an aluminum-foil packet; grill the salmon fillet and warm the tortillas for a minute or two on the grill grate just before serving. (Some cooking times may vary.)

Salmon Tacos With Roasted Corn and Chili Adobo Cream

4 servings

4 to 5 ears sweet corn

1/2 medium red onion

1 medium red or yellow bell pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2pounds skinless salmon fillet, preferably center-cut and about 3/4-inch thick (pin bones removed)

4 medium whole-wheat flour tortillas

2 to 3 tablespoons canned chipotle chili peppers in adobo

4 ounces goat cheese (chevre) or fromage blanc, preferably close to room temperature

1/2 cup low-fat buttermilk

Sliced avocado, cucumber and cherry tomatoes, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Have ready a 9-by-13-inch Pyrex baking dish.

Cut the corn kernels from the ears of corn, letting them fall into the baking dish (there should be about 3 cups). Cut the onion into small dice and add to the baking dish. Stem, seed and core the bell pepper, then cut the flesh into small dice and add as well. Drizzle the vegetables with 1 tablespoon of the oil; season with salt and pepper to taste and stir to coat evenly. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the corn has browned slightly and the mixture is fragrant.

While the vegetables are in the oven, heat a grill pan over medium-high heat. Brush the salmon on both sides with the remaining tablespoon of oil and cook for 5 minutes, until a slight crust forms on the bottom, then use a fish spatula to turn it over carefully and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the desired degree of doneness.

About 5 minutes before serving, stack the tortillas and wrap them in aluminum foil; place in the oven to warm up. Finely chop the chipotle chili peppers in adobo and place in a medium bowl (plus any of their sauce), then add the goat cheese or fromage blanc and buttermilk; mix well.

To serve, transfer the tortillas to a clean dish towel to keep them warm at the table. Divide the salmon into 4 equal portions and place on a platter, along with the chili adobo cream, the roasted vegetables and other garnishes, for assembly.

NUTRITION Per serving: 677 calories, 43 g protein, 49 g carbohydrates, 37 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 101 mg cholesterol, 815 mg sodium, 8 g dietary fiber.