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The perfect pumpkin pie

Is your pumpkin pie a perennial holiday winner? If not, maybe some recipe refinement is in order this year.

BY PERVAIZ SHALLWANI - FOR THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Published: 11/26/08


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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Other holiday pies

Want to try something besides traditional pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving this year? Here are three alternatives.

EGGNOG CREAM PIE

Start to finish: 1 hour (30 minutes active), plus coolingServings: 8

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting, divided

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into cubes, chilled

1 tablespoon cold water

1 cup whole milk

1 cup eggnog

1/2 cup sugar

6 egg yolks

1 teaspoon cinnamon, plus additional for garnish

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, plus additional for garnish

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons rum, brandy or whiskey (optional)

To make the crust: In a large bowl, stir together 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Add the chilled cubed butter. Use your hands or a pastry cutter to cut the butter into the flour until the butter pieces are slightly smaller than a pea and the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add the water and gently stir the mixture together with your hands or a fork just until the mixture is moist but not sticky. If the mixture is too dry, add cold water 1 tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.

Alternatively, in a food processor combine 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Pulse to mix. Add the chilled cubed butter and pulse until the butter pieces are slightly smaller than a pea and the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add the water and pulse until the mixture is moist but not sticky. If the mixture is too dry, add cold water 1 tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.

Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter and turn the dough onto it. Push the dough together to form a ball and wrap well in the plastic. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days.

Heat the oven to 400 F.

Lightly dust the counter with flour. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll it out to about 1/8-inch thickness. Transfer the dough to an 9-inch pie plate and press it gently into the plate.

Trim the overhanging dough to about 1-inch all around the edge. Fold the overhang under itself so that it rests on the lip of the pie plate and decorate the edges as desired.

Use a fork to prick the bottom of the pie crust several times. Line the crust with a piece of foil large enough to hang over the edges. Fill the shell with enough baking weights or dried beans to cover the bottom and go halfway up the sides.

Bake the crust until pale golden brown, about 15 minutes, then remove the foil and baking weights and continue baking until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes more. Transfer the pie shell to a cooling rack and cool to room temperature.

To make the filling: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the milk, eggnog and 1/4 cup of the sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl whisk together the egg yolks, remaining 1/4 cup of flour, cinnamon, nutmeg and remaining 1/4 cup of sugar. When the milk and eggnog mixture is at a simmer, remove the pan from the heat.

While whisking, slowly pour about 1 cup of the warm milk mixture into the egg mixture. Then pour the egg mixture into the pan with the remaining milk and eggnog.

Return the pan to a medium heat. Stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook the mixture until it thickens to the consistency of a heavy pudding, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Pour the mixture into the cooled pie shell and place a sheet of plastic wrap over the top, gently pressing so it touches the surface of the cream. Refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Before serving the pie, whip the cream and liquor (if using) together until the cream holds stiff peaks. Remove the plastic wrap from the surface of the pie and evenly spread the whipped cream over the surface. If desired, lightly dust the top of the pie with cinnamon and nutmeg. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

PEAR AND POMEGRANATE CARAMEL PIE

Start to finish: 1 1/2 hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling. Servings: 8

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes, chilled, divided

6 tablespoons cold water, divided

2 cups pomegranate juice

1 cup dark brown sugar

3 strips lemon zest (optional)

6 tablespoons cornstarch

4 pounds firm pears, such as d'anjou or Bartlett, slightly underripe, peeled and cored, sliced about 1/4-inch thick

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 egg, lightly beaten

To make the crust: In a large bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Add the chilled cubed butter. Use your hands or a pastry cutter to cut the butter into the flour until the butter pieces are slightly smaller than a pea and the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add 2 tablespoons of the water and gently stir the mixture together with your hands or a fork just until the mixture is evenly moist but not sticky. If the mixture is too dry, add more cold water 1 tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.

Alternatively, in a food processor combine the flour and salt. Pulse to mix. Add the chilled cubed butter and pulse until the butter pieces are slightly smaller than a pea and the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add 2 tablespoons of the water and pulse until the mixture is evenly moist but not sticky. If the mixture is too dry, add more cold water 1 tablespoon at a time.

Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter and turn the dough onto it. Push the dough together to form a ball and wrap well in the plastic. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days.

To make the filling: In a medium saucepan over medium-high, combine the pomegranate juice, brown sugar and lemon zest. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by half and is very thick, about 20 to 30 minutes.

In a small glass whisk together the corn starch with the remaining 4 tablespoons of water. While whisking the pomegranate syrup, slowly pour in the cornstarch mixture. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Remove the syrup from the heat, discard the lemon zest, and cool to room temperature.

Heat the oven to 400 F.

Lightly dust the counter with flour. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and cut in half. Roll out one dough half to about 1/8-inch thickness. Transfer the dough to an 9-inch deep dish pie plate and press it gently into the plate. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the pears, cooled pomegranate mixture, cinnamon and nutmeg. Toss well to combine. Transfer the mixture to the dough-lined pie plate, pressing the fruit down or mounding it as needed to fit.

With a pastry brush, brush the overhanging pie dough lightly with the whisked egg.

If needed, lightly dust the counter with flour. Roll the other dough half out to a thickness of about 1/8-inch. Use cookie cutters or a paring knife to cut 2 or 3 small holes at the center.

Carefully place the rolled crust over the pie, centering the holes over the top center of the pie. Press together the overhanging dough at the sides to seal with the egg.

Trim the overhanging dough to about 1-inch all around the pie and fold the overhang under itself so that it rests on the lip of the pie plate. Decorate the pie edges as desired and lightly brush the entire top and edges with the remaining beaten egg.

Transfer the pie to a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the crust is deep golden brown and the filling is bubbling, about 50 to 55 minutes. Transfer the pie to a cooling rack and cool to room temperature before serving.

STREUSEL SPICED BERRY PIE

Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes (20 minutes active), plus coolingServings: 8

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting, divided

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes, chilled, divided

2 tablespoons cold water

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup rolled oats

3 cups frozen mixed berries

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ginger

To make the crust: In a large bowl, stir together 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Add 1/2 cup of the chilled cubed butter. Use your hands or a pastry cutter to cut the butter into the flour until the butter pieces are slightly smaller than a pea and the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add the water and gently stir the mixture together with your hands or a fork just until the mixture is moist but not sticky. If the mixture is too dry, add cold water 1 tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.

Alternatively, in a food processor combine 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Pulse to mix. Add 1/2 cup of the chilled cubed butter and pulse until the butter pieces are slightly smaller than a pea and the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add the water and pulse until the mixture is moist but not sticky. If the mixture is too dry, add cold water 1 tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.

Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter and turn the dough onto it. Push the dough together to form a ball and wrap well in the plastic. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days.

Heat the oven to 400 F.

Lightly dust the counter with flour. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll it out to about 1/8-inch thickness. Transfer the dough to an 9-inch pie plate and press it gently into the plate.

Trim the overhanging dough to about 1-inch all around the edge. Fold the overhang under itself so that it rests on the lip of the pie plate and decorate the edges as desired. Set aside.

To make the streusel, in a medium bowl, rub together the remaining 3/4 cup flour and 1/2 cup of the remaining butter until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Stir in the brown sugar and oats, then set aside.

To make the filling: In a large bowl, combine the berries, cornstarch, lemon zest and juice, allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pie plate. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons of chilled butter into small pieces and sprinkle them over the fruit mixture.

Sprinkle the streusel evenly over surface of pie.

Transfer the pie to a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the crust and streusel are a deep golden brown and the filling is bubbling, about 45 to 50 minutes. Transfer the pie to a cooling rack and cool to room temperature before serving.

As American as pumpkin pie?

We'll leave it to others to debate whether apples or pumpkins make the most all-American pie. But whatever the answer, no one should have to suffer through another Thanksgiving of disappointing pumpkin pie.

Too often, pumpkin pie is the victim of a soggy crust, heavy-handed spicing and a wet, sloppy filling. It's enough to make a diner thankful to avoid this tradition-laden dessert.

"Pumpkin doesn't have a whole lot of flavor," says Jack Bishop, editorial director at Cook's Illustrated magazine. "A lot of people think (pumpkin pie) is bland, so they end up throwing everything they have in the cupboard into the mix."

The ideal pumpkin pie should be delicately spiced, just enough to accentuate the flavor of the pumpkin, and have a light, smooth, yet solid custard-like consistency that holds its shape when cut.

Ready to bake a pie truly worthy of thanks? Here's what you need to know.

THE PUMPKIN

Fresh is better, right? Usually, but not for pumpkin pie.

Even top restaurant chefs swear by canned pumpkin. And it's not just a matter of ease. The quality of canned pumpkin generally is excellent, better than most people trying to make pumpkin puree could manage.

When selecting canned pumpkin, brand doesn't matter much. The key is to make sure you buy the can that says 100 percent pureed pumpkin, not the can of "pumpkin pie filling," which is already spiced.

THE SPICES

Avoid the kitchen sink syndrome. The spices should accentuate the flavor of the pumpkin, not overwhelm it. The classic combination is cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg. Unlike the pumpkin, this is where freshness counts.

"If it's been in the drawer for more than six months they are going to be stale," says Dede Wilson, who went in search of the perfect pie for Bon Appetit magazine in 2006. "If you open the jar and you barely get a scent, they are dead."

As long as it is fresh, ground cinnamon is fine; no need to grind your own from sticks. But freshly ground nutmeg and fresh ginger root (instead of the ground powder) help put this pie over the top. The flavors are much brighter and more nuanced.

And the pumpkin spice blend offered by spice companies?

"I don't think it's the end of the world to use pumpkin spice, but the thing is if you do any baking, you are going to have most of these spices in your pantry, anyway," says Bishop. "It's going to be a little fresher tasting."

THE EGGS AND DAIRY

As with any custard, there is science to the amount of eggs and dairy needed to get the proper texture. Eggs give the custard body, while the dairy provides a rich creaminess.

Wilson favors a ratio of 1 1/4 cups of heavy cream and 3 whole eggs to each 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree. We found that an additional egg yolk provided extra body without weighing down the pie.

THE METHOD

Conventional pumpkin pie recipes call for stirring or whisking together the ingredients, pouring them into a pre-baked crust, then baking the whole thing for about an hour.

Bishop found that doing that first step on the stove - mixing together the pumpkin, sugar and spices in a saucepan over low heat - produces bolder, more concentrated flavors. Wilson favors doing the first step in the blender, saying it results in a smoother, less grainy pie.

We liked both ideas, combining the ingredients on the stove and gently cooking them for about 7 minutes, then running the whole thing through a blender or food processor before adding the mixture to the crust and baking.

THE CRUST

For a flaky crust worthy of this fantastic filling, homemade is your best bet.

If that's too much to tackle, prepared crusts will suffice. But whatever you decide, the crust must be baked on its own (a method called blind baking) before the filling is added. To do this, line the crust with parchment paper, fill it with dry beans, baking pebbles or uncooked rice, then bake at 375 F for 15 minutes.

And don't forget to add some fanciful flourishes to spruce up your pie, especially if you aren't an expert at forming the perfect pinched edging. Roll out an extra portion of pie dough, then use a small cookie cutter to cut shapes, such as leaves.

Arrange these shapes along the edge of the pie to form a decorative edging that masks all manner of crust maladies. This also works to disguise those machine-crimped edges of purchased preformed pie crusts.

If you would rather make your own crust, try the following foolproof recipe from Cook's Illustrated magazine. It uses vodka to create a dough that is easy to work with, but still light and flakey. Don't worry, the vodka cooks off.

BEST PUMPKIN PIE

Start to finish: 1 hour 15 minutes (15 minutes active), plus coolingServings: 8

9-inch deep pie crust

15-ounce can pumpkin puree

3/4 cup packed light brown sugar

3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1 1/2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 large eggs

1 egg yolk

1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream

Heat the oven to 375 F. If using a homemade or unformed pie crust, arrange it in a pie pan and crimp the edges.

Place a sheet of parchment paper inside the pie crust, then fill it with enough dry beans, uncooked rice or pie weights to come nearly to the top of the pie. Bake for 15 minutes, then set aside to cool slightly. Reduce the oven to 350 F.

While the crust is baking, in a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the pumpkin puree, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and salt. Heat for 7 minutes, stirring often.

Transfer the pumpkin mixture to a blender or food processor. Puree for about 10 seconds. One at a time, add the eggs and egg yolk, pulsing the blender or processor briefly between each.

With the blender or processor running, slowly pour in the cream and puree until well mixed, about another 10 seconds.

Discard the beans and parchment paper from the pie crust. Slowly pour the filling into the pie crust, then bake for 1 hour, or until the edges are puffed and the center is set and jiggles only slightly.

Cool completely on a rack before cutting.

PIE CRUST

Makes 2 pie crusts

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

1/2 cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into 4 pieces

1/4 cup cold vodka

1/4 cup cold water

To make the crust, in a food processor, combine 1 1/2 cups of flour, the salt and sugar. Pulse several times to mix.

Add the butter and shortening and process until the dough just starts to collect in uneven clumps, about 15 seconds. The dough will resemble cottage cheese curds, and there should be no uncoated flour.

Scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula and redistribute it evenly around the processor blade. Add the remaining flour and pulse 4 to 6 times, or until the flour is evenly distributed through the dough.

Transfer the dough to a medium bowl, then sprinkle the vodka and water over it.

Using the rubber spatula, mix the dough and liquid with a folding motion, pressing down on the dough until it is slightly tacky and sticks together.

Divide the dough into 2 even balls, then flatten each into a 4-inch disk. Wrap each disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 45 minutes, and up to 2 days.

When the dough has chilled, on a well floured counter roll out each round to a roughly 12-inch circle.

Transfer the dough to a pie pan, crimping any excess over the edge.

From Cook's Illustrated magazine

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